Matías Riccitelli, Rafael Urrejola, Derek Mossman Knapp and Juampi Michelini are four of the most exciting winemakers working in Argentina and Chile today, which is why Hallgarten & Novum Wines invited a select few journalists to meet them, taste a selection of their wines and hear what they’ve got to say about winemaking trends in the two countries. Peter Dean headed to Mayfair’s Corrigan’s restaurant with notebook in hand and here picks his four wines of the evening.
And so to Corrigan’s in London’s Mayfair where Hallgarten & Novum was showing four of its Chile and Argentina wine producers – two from each country – which was a neat reminder of how exciting the wines coming out of the two countries have become.
Hallgarten & Novum Wines Chile & Argentina wine dinner, Corrigan’s
Although Undurraga was founded in 1885, the other three are more ‘new wave’ producers having set up in the past 30 years or so.
On a general level winemaking in these two countries has undergone considerable changes:
- Winemakers have started giving more focus to under-appreciated grape varieties like Pais, Carmenère, Bastardo and Semillón.
- Where the classics like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir are being made, the winemakers are eschewing new oak barrels and opting for larger formats like foudres, concrete eggs, cement and open bins to highlight purity of fruit.
- Like everywhere, it seems, Cabernet Franc is being re-evaluated as a blending component to bring freshness to the wine and as a single varietal.
- Vineyards are being planted higher and Malbec, particularly in Argentina is becoming fresher in style and more terroir-driven.
- Organic and biodynamic farming are on the rise with an increased emphasis on regenerative and sustainable agriculture
Overall, there seems to be a lot more fun and invention coming from the new wave of younger winemakers – opting to make wines in a fresher, lower-intervention style, aiming for freshness while trying to keep alcohol levels in check.
Matías Riccitelli
The son of renowned winemaker Jorge Riccitelli, Matias is one of the most exciting talents in Argentina today, setting up his eponymous estate in 2009 having globe-trotted through various highly-esteemed wineries in Argentina and beyond. He has 50 hectares of vines located in three sites within the premium growing region of Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza and has added to these some vineyards in Patagonia. Matias is seeking to express the full potential of Argentine terroir in an inventive and dynamic way. Recently, Riccitelli featured in the Top 100 of The World’s Best Vineyard Awards 2025.
On the night we tasted some old vine Bastardo and old vine Semillón from Patagonia, and Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Mendoza (all 2024 vintage). For me the standouts were the Pinot, and particularly the Semillón
Semillón, Old Vines From Patagonia 2024
Matías explained how he felt the future of Mendoza lies in white wine and Pinot Noir while Patagonia has a wealth of old vines and a climate that suits his style – concentration, freshness with firm and balanced acidity. He has 10,000 litres of Semillón under flor (started in 2015), 15% of which he has added to the 85% of 2024 fruit. It’s a fascinating style – serious, subtle, elegant and nuanced. You pick up complex and elegant aromas of citrus, white flowers and vanilla which lead to a well balanced palate, with an elegant finish.
The Michelini brothers
Zorzal is a boutique Argentinian winery which was established in 2008 at the highest point of the Uco Valley by the Michelini brothers, who are being as some of the key trendsetters of the Argentinian winemaking scene. Juampi Michelini explained how the terroir is respected through low intervention winemaking techniques that put austerity before exuberance and fruit before wood. The wines have rapidly gained international recognition.
On the night we tasted a glossy Malbec, two Chardonnays – one entry level the other the Parcelario, from the estate’s 100% ‘Grand Cru’ site – and a Cabernet Franc from the iconic Eggo range. All wines were from the Uco Valley and 2024 vintage.
Cabernet Franc, Eggo Franco, 2024
For this pure, concentrated expression, the fruit comes from a high-altitude plot on mainly calcareous soils. The grapes are fermented in a series of concrete eggs which lends the wine a smooth, virnat structure with persistent palate of pure Cab Franc fruit – without any oak getting in the way. There’s a natural sweetness coming from the fruit that leans towards a New World style – the finish is long, full bodied and complex.
Rafael Urrejola
Undurraga is one of Chile’s oldest wineries, having been established in 1885, and most prestigious – now owning 1,350 hectares of vineyard in prime spots like Leyda, Cauquenes and Itata. The team cultivates its vineyards with respect for the environment (certified by Sustainable Wines of Chile) and follows a philosophy of minimal intervention in the cellar to showcase the terroir – the Terroir Hunter range being a great example of head winemaker Rafael Urrejola’s knowledge of the diversity of Chile’s key sites. In 2023, Urrejola was named Red Winemaker of the Year 2023 by the IWC.
The evening kicked off with a glass of Undurraga’s extra brut Espumante which was followed by four wines, a ripe, easy-going Pinot called Trama, an old vine Carménère (both 2022) and a rare, limited edition 2021 Garnacha called Cauquen which is sadly not available in the UK (“let us choose the wines next time!” it was suggested) and a Chard. Which is available.
Chardonnay, Terroir Hunter 2024
Part of the Terroir Hunter sub-brand this is a clean, fresh and pure Chardonnay expression that has been aged in a mix of 2-3 year old large format wood and eggs. It’s a real crowd pleaser with subtle oak lending a spiciness to the citrus and orchard fruit notes. The grapes come from the underrated Limarí Valley.
Derek Mossman Knapp
If filmmaker Michael Moore was a Canadian winemaker he’d be much like Derek Mossman Knapp both in looks and attitude. Knapp has a lot to say and is passionate about his wine project which started literally in his garage in Pilar. His schtick is dry-farming with revived old vines in the decomposed grantic and schist soils of Chile’s Coastal Range mountains that are close to the Pacific. Terroir-driven and crafted in an uncompromising, manner, these are most unlike many Chilean wines you are likely to have tried.
On the night Derek opened four of these very individual cuvées – a gruff, crunchy Carignan/ Garnacha/ Mataro blend and a wild, old vine Syrah (both 2019) and a high-toned 2023 old vine pale rosado made from Mataro and Carignan but the standout for me was this 100% Cab Sauv. All wines coming from various parts of the Maule Valley.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Parcel Selection, Renacido Vineyard 2021
Rare 40 year-old bush head vine Cabernet Sauvignon grown on granitic soils then aged in old big barrels, this starts with complex aromas of blackcurrant, bramble fruit, vanilla and smoky toast. The palate is rich and robust with dark fruit and chocolate framed by firm tannins and a sturdy structure. The finish is long and really quite elegant.
